Owner of three-strong Harvey Luke salon group in Derby, colourist Natalie Allen is keen to share her 20-year industry experience with educational and platform work. We asked her to share these two current colour looks, and explain how she worked the magic.
• First I pre-lightened the mid-lengths and ends of a base 6, using Fudge Professional Speed bleach and 20 vol. Catalyst. After 30 minutes I applied a Speed 2 cream bleach onto the root area with 10 vol. Catalyst and developed for a further 20 minutes
• After shampooing, I mixed 60g 10.0 with 6g 8.4, and 2g 0.66 intensifier with 10 vol. full head application 1:2 ratio for 25 minutes to create a beautiful peach tone. To complete the colour I used Fudge’s Paint Box Coral Blush in random triangular sections twisting the hair as I applied throughout the mid length to ends, to enhance the tone, and developed for 20 minutes
• After blow-drying the hair with a blow-dry spray, using a medium round brush to ensure maximum root lift, I worked with a chopstick wand around the hair line and root area to create added volume and movement. I finished the remaining hair with a large tong, working in alternating directions and teasing each section to dishevel the curl and add texture. I applied a powder throughout the whole hair for support, and a hairspray to sculpt and set in place. [All products were provided by Alan Howard Hair Suppliers].
• After pre- lightening using a balayage technique with Fudge Professional Speed Lightening Powder and 20 vol. Catalyst onto a natural base 6 which was slightly warmer, I applied an all-over toner consisting of 60g 10.0 and 4g of 4.22 with 10 vol 1:1 ratio for 20 minutes to neutralise the warmth
• On dry hair I used a colour-melt technique using Fudg’es Paint Box Lilac Frost to enhance the pastel-purple pigment, then blended through the mid-lengths and ends with a pastel-pink combination of 10 parts lighter shade of pale with 1 part pink riot
• The style was created by using a blend of a whip and a primer on the hair, then blow-drying using a large round brush. Large tongs were used and hair set into place with pins and left to cool
• To finish, I thoroughly brushed the hair through with a soft bristle brush to remove the firm structure I had created, and allowed the hair to flow more freely. I added a shine spray to my brush and worked through the ends to create slight separation in the curl. Then I finished the look with texture spray on top to allow a firmer hold and a slightly matte finish.
[CREDITS: In association with Alan Howard Ltd. Hair: Natalie Allen at Harvey Luke Hair. Photographer: Barry Jeffrey. Makeup: Elizabeth Rita]